WINE-COUNTRIES GREECE

1 - Arcadia
2 - Attica
3 - Creta
4 - Macedonia
5 - Samos Wineries

Vineyard area: 138 thousand hectares

Total production: 4 million hectolitres

Annual consumption
total: 3.15 million hectolitres
per capita: 31.5 litres

Exports: 620 thousand hectolitres

Imports: 54 thousand hectolitres

Principal grape varieties: xynomavro, mavrodaphne, agiorgitiko, rhoditis, mascophilero, assyrtiko, saviatano, moscato di Samos e di Limnos, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, merlot.

When asked about the origin of grape varieties in the area of Mantinea, Dimitri Hatzimichalis smiled as he answered: "They are all autochthonous, but then all vitis vinifera vines are Greek!" Leaving aside nationalist pride this assertion is not far from the truth. The mythology of wine, fundamental documentation of early viticulture and winemaking and the first references to wine in literature all originated in ancient Greece, even though traces of this splendid tradition are hard to find today.

The long domination by the Ottoman empire which imposed strict prohibition (although in reality wine growing never died out completely) certainly took its toll on wine producing and consumption. It is not the only other factor to have hindered progress however. The ancient practice of adding resin to grape must during fermentation, especially in Attica,where resinous wines account for approximately 60 per cent of consumption, has also slowed down the renaissance of a modern wine culture. To date production has been concentrated in the hands of very few large firms and this has also impeded the appearance of small estate bottlers which would create healthy competition.

Nevertheless quiet changes have begun over the past couple of decades, not unlike those which resulted in Italy's quality revolution. The similarities between the two countries are many, including the excellent conditions for producing fine wine in certain regions, the influence of the nearby Mediterranean on the climate and the rich patrimony of native grape varieties which produce wines with unique personality - not to mention the steady influx of tourists willing to consume local products. Greece is still a long way behind the world's leading producers, but dynamic and far-reaching reform is underway. To break into the international wine scene however the Greek wine industry will have to play its winning card, the exploitation of native varieties. This is what will be the fundamental resource for the country's wine culture, a culture which has the potential to become one of the world's most interesting in the coming years.

Vineyards and wineries in the north of the country are predominantly new, and oenologists of the French school are producing premium wines there both from international and autochthonous varieties. Among these the Xynomavro grape in the Naussa appellation is worthy of special mention. The most important traditional varieties are to be found following the peninsula south to where the islands are dotted around the Aegean Sea. Greece is already making a certain number of premium wines of international appeal. The arrival of modern winemaking facilities and cultivation techniques should lead to the production of wines with strong personalities, capable of finding a following on the world market which to date is dominated by the usual omnipresent international grape varieties