Wine consumption in Germany has remained stable since 1980, though statistically it has fallen slightly since German reunification in 1990, from 26 litres annually per capita to 22.5 litres This is due to the drinking habits of the former East Germans who are less partial to wine (16 litres per capita compared to 26 litres in the west). There has been a distinct trend towards higher quality wine in recent years. Consumption of sparkling wine has increased and it is interesting to note that former East Germans prefer lightly sweeter wines compared to their western counterparts. Imports account for just under half the total wine consumption.
Exports of German wines have increased continually since 1970, accounting for around 25 per cent of production (in 1993 there was a slight decrease), though this is considerably less than the volume imported. The export share of lightly sweet and nobly sweet wines is noteworthy, going against the international trend for dry wines. The USA and Japan are the main customers.
In Germany grape picking usually begins in the last week of September depending on the growing region and continues until late October, though certain wines may be harvested even later. Vineyard yields are restricted by law and the maximum varies from 80 hectolitres per hectare to 140 hectolitres per hectare, depending on region and grape variety, while the average during recent years has been just under 100 hectolitres per hectare. In 1993 it was down to 75 hectolitres per hectare and in some years quantities are even lower.
Germany is fairly uniform when it comes to viticultural practices. Almost everywhere vines are supported by a wire framework, known as the guyot training system. Ecological awareness is increasing. Top growers especially no longer use chemical sprays, and fertilisers are reduced to a minimum. Insecticides and fungicides are nowadays only employed when absolutely necessary.
Due to Germany's northerly position her white wines - which make up the bulk of production - are appealing due to their relatively low alcohol content and comparatively high acidity. The acidity is left in its natural form on purpose and wines do not usually undergo malolactic fermentation. Alcohol may be increased by chaptalisation (adding sugar to the grape juice), but only for simple 'Qualitätsweine', which make up between 30 per cent and 70 per cent of production. The extra alcohol may not exceed 3.5 per cent by volume.
Germany is the only large wine-growing nation which divides its quality wines into two categories. They are 'Qualitätsweine bestimmter Anbaugebiete' or QbA (Quality Wines from Specific Growing Areas) and the higher grade 'Qualitätsweine mit Prädikat' or QmP (Quality Wines of Distinction). The latter encompasses the superior designations Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beeren-Auslese, Trocken-Beeren-Auslese and Eiswein. The criteria for determining a wine's position in this hierarchy is the sugar level in the grapes. As mentioned above, simple QbA wines may be 'improved' by the addition of sugar to the juice before fermentation, a practice forbidden for QmP wines. In addition, maximum vineyard yields for QmP wines are more restricted in some regions, along with other more severe regulations in the interest of quality.
According to proposals for a new wine law made in 1994 these restrictions are to be partially relaxed. In order to protect growers against competition from southern Europe a new category, 'Qualitätsweine garantierten Urprungs' - QgU or Quality Wine of Guaranteed Origin - has been proposed and according to these regulations certain regulations governing the production of QmP wines are to be abolished. The 'origin' is to be defined in a much broader sense than hitherto and grapes may come from outside the locality stated on the label. They also allow for Auslese and other top quality grapes to be machine harvested. Quality-oriented producers fear a flood of industrially produced Eiswein, to name but one example. The law was presented in this form in spite of objections by associations of top growers.
Ahr (Germany)
1992 and 1993 were excellent years for the red Pinot Noir, known locally as Spätburgunder. The warm weather in September and the dry autumn enabled grapes to fully ripen on the slate terraces above the picturesque Ahr river to produce wines of intense colour and good tannin. This is especially true of 1993. The wines are dark in colour, rich and with good natural alcohol levels. Compared to the powerful, in some cases over-ripe 1990s, they are more classic and harmonious. 1991 failed to produce wines of more than average quality. The will to depart from accepted practices and experiment is evident among many growers who are far more numerous than those featured in this book. In the cellars, experiments are underway with new types of wood and casks of varying sizes. For some time now producers have begun to measure their wines against those of their French neighbours and are intent on making up for lost time. Nevertheless, malolactic fermentation is still not a matter of course for red wines and the proportion of lightly sweet wines is surprisingly high. All this makes it difficult for producers to sell their wines beyond the circle of traditional customers, not to mention to international markets. Distribution is also limited by the fact that the quantities produced are small.
Baden (Germany)
The 1991, 1992 and 1993 vintages all fail to measure up to the phenomenal 1990. In 1991, the cool September slowed down the accumulation of sugar in the grapes. 1992 produced good quality which was marred by over-production, with quantities only equalled by the abundant 1989 vintage. Needless to say, many wines lack substance in spite of high sugar levels, especially among reds. Growers who resisted the temptation to over-produce were very successful, especially with early harvested white wines such as the Burgundian varieties. Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) yielded very few wines in the upper categories. 1993 was another excellent year, though only for growers who carried out strict grape selections during the harvest. Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder), Pinot Gris (Grauburgunder) and Gutedel ripened well and are graced with fresh, lively acidity. The (for Germany) late ripening Pinot Noir also produced some superb wines. The trend towards maturing wines in small oak casks continues, though this is only advantageous for very few muscular, concentrated red wines. Results are grotesque when red wines made by pre-fermentation must heating are matured in barrique, a practice frequently employed by cooperatives. Nevertheless cooperatives are also working hard to improve their quality image by encouraging members to reduce yields and by carefully selecting grapes during the harvest.
Wein have attained very high standards in recent years, especially from the Burkheimer Feuerberg which has volcanic soils excellent for red wine production. In addition the Berchers produce one of Kaiserstuhl's best Rieslings. 'Exklusiv' is the name used to market their top wines which are partly barrique aged (ageing which indicated on the label).
Franken (Germany)
Producers in Franken have their cellars full with superior Kabinett and Spätlese wines following the 1990, 1991, 1992 and 1993 vintages. It is a great shame when many need to down-grade them simply to be competitive in offering everyday drinking wines. In spite of the region's superb natural prerequisites for quality wine production, the situation in Franken is far from healthy compared to ten years ago. In 1992 many of Franken's growers showed little respect for their region by becoming main contributors to the disgraceful over-production in Germany in that year. After the 'Ice Saints' (four saints' days in May when winter traditionally attempts a final come back), instead of cutting away the 'frost branch', an extra shoot left as insurance against frost damage, most secretly left it to harvest one third more. It did not pay and many such growers ended up selling off their Spätlesen for just five marks. Those who pruned correctly produced excellent quality, with some wines almost measuring up to the 1990s. In numerous sub zones and corners of this very varied winegrowing region, the 1992s are more successful than the 1993s. The latter seemed to be superior with higher sugar levels, but the wines lack acidity, making many 1993s lighter and for earlier drinking than their predecessors. This is especially true of Sylvaner. Riesling ripened in very few places in Franken and has therefore become a rarity, though the very best sites have produced fine 1993s.
Hessische Bergstraße (Germany)
The Hessische Berg-Strasse is one of Germany's smallest wine-growing regions and its 600-odd growers can hardly complain about how nature has treated them in recent years. Seldom have there been so many good vintages in a row. 1991 was the only exception, though even in that cool year grapes ripened successfully and were harvested in good, healthy condition. Most growers farm small holdings of less than one hectare and nature's gifts from 1992 and 1993 have left them more than satisfied. The wines have turned out ripe, mouth-filling with winey acidity, of a kind which the whole 1980s failed to produce. The incidence of Spätlese and Auslese from the Riesling grape is correspondingly high and there were also some sensational nobly sweet wines. By far the majority of Hessische Berg-Strasse wines are drunk in the region and are difficult to come across elsewhere. Exports are practically non-existent, although the finest examples are of top international standard.
Mosel, Saar, Ruwer (Germany)
The series of good vintages on the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer seems unending. Since 1988 only above average vintages have been proclaimed, except for the small setback in 1991, though even then the wine was better than just ordinary. In all these vintages the light-bodied, multi-layered Mosel style has been seen at its best; wines of great finesse with accentuated but ripe acidity and long ageing potential and in addition noble sweet wines of almost sublime perfection. Although German consumers usually expect Mosel wines to be lightly sweet, there is a deliberate trend towards drier styles to satisfy more mature palates. At the same time,more and more growers are concentrating on nobly sweet specialities. Auslese, Beeren-Auslese and Eisweine from the Mosel have long attracted international recognition and recently German wine-lovers are also returning to these classic Mosel specialities. The fashion of vinifying and bottling the produce of each small plot of land separately has infected top producers. The result is a perplexing array of wines, usually made in minute quantities which consumers can only recognise by means of a myriad of additional designations, or the length of the capsule covering the cork. Experiments with non-traditional grape varieties and barriques are limited. Another noticeable development is that the gap separating young, ambitious growers from traditional bulk wine suppliers who exploit the production limit of 120 hectolitres per hectare to the full is widening. The sublime and the ordinary still coexist along the Mosel, though unfortunately it is not always the quality-minded producers who end up laughing at the end of the year.
Mittelrhein (Germany)
Growers in the Mittel-Rhein are likely to remember 1993 for a long time to come. During the past 15 years they have never managed to produce such grandiose Rieslings and grapes were never harvested in such perfect health with such dramatically high acidity coupled with fully ripe fruit. All in all a superb year which is bound to remind both German and international wine lovers of this small, forgotten wine region. Only few sites on the Mosel, the Saar and Rheingau managed to produce such refined Rieslings and such high grade Beeren- and Trocken-Beeren-Auslesen in 1993 as in the Mittel-Rhein and at such disgracefully low prices. One only has to consider the hard work on the steep, terraced hillsides above the Rhine, where high quality wines can only be produced entirely by hand, without mechanisation. 1991 and 1992 also yielded premium wines well above Germany's general average. Riesling is still fermented and matured in traditional, old 600-litre casks. The wines often retain natural residual sugar due to the coolness of the cellars which stops them from fermenting out to dryness.
Nahe (Germany)
The Nahe is a small and generally under estimated wine-growing area which lives in the continual danger of being ground between the two millstones, the Mosel and Rhine. In reality the Nahe can produce Rieslings to equal the best from either region and its Sylvaners and Pinot Gris (Grauburgunder) are also impressive, especially from 1992 and 1993. Hopefully these wines will help growers along the Nahe to move out of their neighbours' shadow. Both vintages yielded wines equal to the best of the past 15 years, though in the long term the 1993s will prove to be superior. Compared to the usual rather supple, light Nahe style these wines are rather opulent with vibrant acidity promising excellent keeping qualities, especially higher up in the QmP hierarchy, often with a pronounced botrytis character. Some 1992s are also appealing thanks to fine ripeness and acidity, although the vintage in general is less uniform than its predecessor and growers who failed to carefully select grapes after the October rains have bottled rather thin wines. A further factor which compromised quality is the fact that Nahe growers harvested 30 % more than in 1993. There were however notable exceptions and the following pages give more space to these than to the run of the mill production of the vintage. 1991 was similar; an average year in which top growers made superb wines, especially in the noble sweet category
Pfalz-Palatinato (Germany)
The Pfalz is a heterogeneous growing area. Its northern part, the Mittelhaard is best known for its Rieslings. Kallstadt, Ungestein, Wachenheim and Deidesheim produce wines of substance, especially dry wines, though also lightly sweet and nobly sweet styles, while the south is more suitable for Pinots Blanc and Gris (Weissburgunder and Grauburgunder). Recently good Rieslings and interesting red wines have emerged from the southern wine route (Südliche Wein-Strasse) area. This is no coincidence, for there is hardly another part of Germany where wine growers are making such strides to break away from the 'quantity first, quality second' philosophy. Almost everywhere producers are experimenting intensively, creating new cuv‚es from old grape varieties or releasing modern varieties in new styles. In some cases results are still not satisfactory, in others ideas are still in the intuitive phase, though everywhere in the region ambition is a strong driving force. 1993 produced some grandiose wines, especially among early ripening Burgundian varieties. Riesling is more variable, though nature rather than man was the deciding factor. Above all large estates which had to harvest during breaks in the October rains encountered huge problems, while smaller producers were able to wait, and some excellent wines have emerged. 1992 could also have been excellent were it not for the embarrassingly high over-production in some parts, causing large differences between wines from conscientious growers and mass-producers
Rheingau-Renania (Germany)
The Rheingau is without doubt one of Germany's finest Riesling growing areas in spite of the criticism (often justified) launched time and time again about the lack of consistency in quality and the comparatively high prices. The south-facing hillsides of the Taunus which descend gently to the Rhine yield full-bodied, softly fruity wines of high breeding. Since 1988 a row of good to top vintages have enabled the difficult, late ripening Riesling to play its trump card several times in a row. Following the fantastic 1990s and the more than acceptable 1991s, the 1992 and 1993 wines were superbly successful. If it had not begun to rain just before the harvest began, two vintages of the century would have emerged in succession. In spite of the rain wines from both years are ripe and rich bordering on opulent. Even dry Rieslings which are otherwise often mean on the palate have turned out surprisingly soft and smooth. Both are typical Spätlese vintages. Normal 'Qualitätsweine' are rare and where they do exist statistically in large quantities they are usually Spätlese or Kabinett wines which have been down-graded. 1993 also produced a rare array of top grade nobly sweet wines culminating in stunning Trocken-Beeren-Auslesen. In 1990 botrytis was rare and for wines like these 1993 was the superior vintage. In general terms 1993 is likely to turn out to be the more interesting of the two in the medium term - vineyard yields were smaller, acidity is higher coupled with high sugar levels. The wines are correspondingly racier and longer-lived, especially in off-dry (halbtrocken) styles. When it comes to dry styles lovers of Rheingau wines are more likely to prefer the 1992s, though there are exceptions. The red Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) was overall more successful in 1993
Rheinhessen-Assia Renana (Germany)
For many years the Rheinhessen has been Germany's largest wine producer in terms of volume. Its reputation has therefore become blemished by mass production and low prices and as a consequence quality-minded producers have to fight harder than their colleagues elsewhere to gain recognition. Still, there are producers who come up with honest, respectable wines even in places where there are no good sites for miles around. There can be no doubt that the region's best wines come from the Rheinfront, the stretch of the Rhine between Nackenheim and Guntersblum, also known as the 'Red Slope' which is planted almost exclusively with Riesling. Wines from here have as little in common with those from Rheinhessen's hinterland as Montrachet has with Chablis. In any other part of Europe such a privileged growing area would have been granted its own appellation of origin long ago. The best wines from the Rheinfront are equal to the great Rheingau Rieslings. 1992 and 1993 were both equally successful vintages which yielded excellent wines with superb fruit and acidity, though 1993 excelled with excellent noble sweet wines
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